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It would be all too easy to strip the thread by over tightening the grub screw with the supplied truly cheap and nasty allen keys. Eventually I had to remove the threaded rods and file flat surfaces on the ends. Then tightness of the grub screws became less of an issue. Loctite blue. Remove screw, put in a drop or two, reinsert screw and snug.
It will keep the screw tight, and also tie the shaft to the coupler. With a little force, it can all come apart if needed. No heat needed in general. My solution, because this was at 2 a. This machine makes a LOT of vibration. I replaced all those connectors with three layers of heatshrink and zipties.
Far more functional. Two hundred freaking dollars for a ready-to-run CNC machine. Sure it will never do metalwork, but what it can do for that price is pretty amazing. Just as everywhere Chinese quality is what you pay for. Tbi seems to make quite nice ballscrews. C5 Ground ballscrews with double nut start arout USD C3 cost around USD Thanks, I appreciate it. Gten is another.
An amazon seller claims to sell genuine TBI C3 at suspiciously low pricing. Can you explain your critique further? How do you make an aluminum frame damped? What can you do to solve the spindle and z-carriage problems? Extrusions bend and twist during manufacturing — I believe that is specified to be straight within 0.
If you need flat metal then you need machined metal. For typical applications 0. For example, if the left rail was 0. If you took some 0. This is assuming that the rest of the Y and Z components are in tram, but, they likely have similar issues of their own. For wood and most plastics that 0. Both materials are subject to moisture absorption which causes swelling, and designers using those materials should design using tolerances to allow for that absorption.
That gap is then covered by a 0. When cutting wood, 0. For metal though, that 0. If you tried to press a bearing into a hole that was 0. If you installed a bearing into a hole that was 0. That 0. A lot. Different plastics have a large range of differing characteristics so are difficult to generalize. You might be able to press into marginally undersized holes on softer plastics, but not on harder brittle plastics. Same is true for most engraved wood, unless you were engraving laminates and that error took you through a layer at one end only.
HDPE is a readily machinable plastic that holds good tolerances. You might choose to build a gearbox housing from it, and that 0. Dampening requires absorbing vibration. That typically requires mass. You could improve this machine by bolting it to something heavy such as a granite counter-top offcut which are usually pretty darn flat btw , or embedding it into concrete paint with an epoxy paint first to prevent corrosion.
The Z carriage is plastic and subject to moisture absorption and swelling. The spindle appears to be a cheap electric motor. Cheap motor, cheap bearings. You at least need something that was designed to handle those type of loads — trim routers are a popular budget choice. Air-powered grinders loud! Again, weight is likely to become an issue here.
Epic response. Where are people like this dude? Thanks ID! I disagree. What are you imagining the application is? To me, the application is making a hobbyist-affordable machine that can do low-precision working of relatively soft materials into imagined shapes, and versatile aluminum extrusions are perfect for it. The fact that you can identify worst-case examples of bad applications for a machine like this does not in any way imply that there is no good application.
You know what they say — the best tool for the job is the one you have. The first time. Aside from all of that, and maybe I should have opened with this, I have to point out an error in your reasoning. You state that the twist in an extrusion can result in the worst-case error in the machine as a whole. But that assumes that the builder will just blindly screw all of the pieces together and call it good. This machine can be made as accurately as the builder wants. Note that the accuracy of the machine is determined by the accuracy of the parallel rails.
And note that the slide rails are attached to those inappropriate extrusions using clamp blocks. If somebody wants this machine to be accurate, that twist can be countered by adjusting the corner blocks as necessary to make the rails parallel. I know because I just DID that. Nothing depends on the straightness of the extrusions, so the materials are not the limiting factor.
But whatever. Obviously as an owner you have more experience in this machine than I do. Maybe my characterization was a little harsh in that for its intended application wood and plastic it does the job. It was clear in that analysis that for cutting wood or plastic being able to hold 0.
Even if you align the corners well, the rail itself can still have 0. In the worst case all of those errors could sum. Napkin math suggests 0. Those round linear rails are possibly stiffer than the extrusions they are mounted to. They can be somewhat forgiving of alignment errors, especially those perpendicular to the plane that a parallel pair form i. In this application that is actually a good thing — with a rectangular linear rail system those same alignment errors could cause the axis to bind and the stepper motor driving it to miss steps which would lead to part dimensional errors of much much worse than 0.
Rectangular rail requires flat, aligned and stiff mounting surfaces — the higher the precision of the linear rail system, the more precise that mounting needs to be to avoid binding. In machine tool terms, those rails are still considered floppy — they are supposed to be mounted to something flat that is much stiffer than they are and provides the necessary alignment to keep them straight.
Note also that because of the slop inherent in channel nuts, you can have those rails parallel, aligned in the perpendicular direction just discussed, but out of alignment in the direction of the they are mounted to with the clamping blocks twisted on the rail. The end result would be movement out of square to the commanded axis — Y commands would also move the table a little in the X direction, X commands would move the gantry a little in Z, Z commands would move the spindle a little in X.
Square parts become trapezoid, round parts become elliptical. Another observation — we can infer from the construction and cost that the ballscrews are limited in their lead accuracy, and almost certainly will have some backlash. You should be able to compensate out much of the backlash in software.
They inspect and guaranty the lead accuracy to a higher standard for the higher grades, and that certification is what costs the money. A budget manufacturer might not be able to hit those higher standards to begin with.
The good news is that even the cheap ballscrews are better than the average acme thread or leadscrew in most applications. That could have all sorts of ramifications on strength, stiffness and accuracy. Not necessarily bad, but if I were a betting man…. Yes, even using slotted aluminum extrusion. I have spent enough time in my life cutting wood or plastic with hacksaws, circular saws.
I bought one about a year ago. I really like it after returning the first one I got to MicroCenter because the controller died. Ther replacement was the kit version, which goes together nicely. Aligning the X axis was a bit tricky, bit a dial indicator took care of it. Nice, repeatable results. As I mentioned in an earlier post, limit switches took about an hour for very simple ones. All the pins are already available for those and the Z axis probe.
By far, the best addition was, however, bolting the Pi Zero W onto it so it is now wireless. No muss, no fuss. Using chillipeppr I can drop eagle PCB drawings onto the workspace, zero out the bed, run an auto-level, and off it goes. Even ferric chloride and other industrial etchants are pretty benign if handled safely.
Many household vacuum cleaners have a HEPA filter option. But even just drilling creates dust, so you would likely need this protection in place for etched boards as well. Yes, I have been eliminating through hole components as much as I can for that reason. Luckily you can find all kinds of SMD versions for what used to be through hole only, like connectors and pin headers.
One can even manually trim the regular 0. What I wonder is whether I can use the laser to remove paint or such think from copper clad board to etch it, to avoid toner transfer or photographic process…. Ferric chloride is easy to neutralize with washing or baking soda. It should never be disposed of where it could enter the ecosystem because the copper is toxic to aquatic life.
The biggest risk of flushing small quantities down your sink is that it can stain and etch metals and ceramics. I have a Radio Shack bottle somewhere that has instructions to dispose of it by flushing down the toilet. Fritzing can export Gerber files for the traces and holes. I need to produce soic8 footprints reliably. Would welcome any advice. Definitely buy new bits. Runout is great but it is loud as fsck, even with the compressor in the garage ft away.
Nice review. The current version, 1. This is the one I tried first, so I know it works on the Mac. I also bought a similar one 6 months ago. Adding end-stop switches was quick and easy, so as adding z probing capabilities z-probing is absolutely needed for autoleveling before PCB carving : just connect wires to the connector on the board and enable homing in Grbl. Btw, I successfully installed the Arduino bootloader on the board and upgraded the Grbl firmware to the latest version 1.
I love my machine. In fact, I added hardware limit switches, and bed leveling, built it into a fully enclosed cabinet with lighting and dust extraction. You can see it by googling GhostPepperCnc. I sell them for anyone who is interested. Check out bCNC as a software controller.. I checked out chilipepper, but the fact you need to be online is a tad annoying.. I like using ChiliPeppr. UGS seems old now too.
I bought one about one year ago. Still did not make it run properly and it sits in a box. It was a kit. Had trouble aligning the stuff and I am having the same problem Tony says with the coupling. I sort of managed to make a bit of good PCB milling…but…. I have a similar one that is bigger variant which also uses the same controller board.
I think you should clarify in the article that it is the software you are using to generate gcode which is not starting the spindle. When I generate gcode then it always starts my spindle before carving.
You could probably cut 3mm wood, with the right bit and slow passes. I do have a laser engraver; with the right laser it will cut 3mm material. Note that the reviewed machine is not quite a 3-D CNC machine, since it only has 30mm of Z-axis range. Thank you for your answer. The problem is that a laser able to cut 3mm material is expensive and dangerous, and it leaves burnt edges when cutting wood… And I guess that the laser they sell with the machine would not be powerful enough mW.
Butter, maybe. And yes, scorched edges. On ali express, for these machines, you generally have the options: — without laser — with mW laser — with mW laser — with mW laser. Once you get any appreciable distance from the laser, the beam diverges enough for its intensity to be greatly reduced, to the point where the goggles are effective.
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